Fishing and a Kiwi connection in Shangri-La
A true Shangri-La
The ancient Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan is one of the earth's most extraordinary places. It is one of the smallest countries on earth and as close to a real-life Shangri-La as exists. Bhutan, with its serene Buddhist culture and its ruggedly beautiful landscape, is truly a living heritage. Bhutan remained unknown and isolated from much of the world for hundreds of years. With a premium placed on 'gross national happiness' and a new Constitution, Bhutan has now begun to modernize with great care by improving roads and adding direct lights from Bangkok, while protecting its pristine environment and the unique culture of its peoples. We offer individual trips to this 'Land of the Peaceful Dragon' to ish for Brown Trout while experiencing the magic of this unique destination.
My family and I irst visited this enchanting kingdom 25 years ago. I led the irst outside group to ly ish this mountainous country in 1986. Although my ly-ishing endeavors now concentrate on New Zealand's waters, my personal interest in Bhutan persists. I established the Bhutan Friendship Foundation in 1988 which has funded over $4 million in local projects. This fall, Nancy and I will attend the blessing of Gangtey Gompa, an ancient monastery recently rebuilt with the assistance of our Foundation. In 1989 I established a fly tying operation in Bhutan with a Bhutanese partner, Ugyen Rinzin, who recently opened a new luxury hotel, Zhiwa Ling, in Paro.
Experiencing the magic firsthand
I made my 22nd visit to Bhutan last summer. Together with my wife, daughter, and son-in-law, I traveled as a guest of a member of Bhutan's royal family with whom I have spent many a stream side excursion when in Bhutan. While the Prince and I ished, my family visited local, ancient temples and other sights. Because my daughter and son-in-law revealed that they were hoping to start a family, our host urged them to visit the temple of 'The Mad Monk'. Many Bhutanese believe that a blessing from the Mad Monk will result in a pregnancy for couples wishing to have a child - - even those thought to otherwise be infertile. Hearing that, and eager to become grandparents again, my wife and I immediately urged our host to arrange an audience with the Monk for KC and Frank. That done, the couple and their guide drove to the village where the path to the Monk's monastery begins.
From the village they walked along water-drenched rice ields, passing the occasional hand-built home of a curious villager. After a lengthy trek, the couple spotted the temple on the crest of a hill and increased their pace. They were greeted by a group of young, red-robed monks who reside, study at and care for the Mad Monk's temple. They followed the couple to the temple and waited outside like excited groupies. The Mad Monk appeared inside the temple, and began the ritual on which his reputation is based. Frank was asked to roll an ancient ivory dice and the number 8 appeared. Much mumbling later the couple learned that 8 is the number of the local deity and thus very auspicious. So far so good. KC then was asked to select one of a fist full of strings held by the Monk. She did so and more mumbling followed. The Monk announced that KC and Frank would have a girl. Mission accomplished.
That night, back at the lodge, KC used a drug store pregnancy kit to check progress toward a family. She had been disappointed by a negative outcome a few days earlier. This time, the test was positive. As word of the pregnancy spread among our Bhutanese hosts, none seemed to doubt that the Mad Monk's blessing prompted another pregnancy. We decided to give the blessing full credit and did not quibble about the prediction of a girl when KC and Frank had a boy nearly nine months later. This baby's ties to the Land of the Peaceful Dragon are evident in the nursery: A 'Puff The Magic Dragon' book and a plush dragon are on the nursery shelves and a Bhutanese thangka (hand-painted scroll) hangs above the crib and a hand woven Bhutanese carpet is on the loor. loor.
Kiwis migrate to the Himalayas
Back to business. After 20+ years of visiting and fishing with my partner, Ugyen Rinzin, in Bhutan, I inally persuaded him to join me early this year in stalking trout in New Zealand [see details in Early Season Fishing Revisited]. At Lake Rotoroa Lodge Ugyen met the former lodge managers; Brent & Sharleen Hyde, who were about to depart following the sale of the lodge. Coincidentally, Ugyen needed a manager for his 45 room luxury hotel, Zhiwa Ling Hotel, in Paro, Bhutan. Brent and Sharleen are now living in Bhutan managing the hotel. This is truly a small world.
